Foreword: From design choices to fabric selection, fashion cannot be truly understood apart from the cultural context in which it flourishes. Traditional heritage has always been a driving force of design identity, yet in today’s increasingly trend-dependent fashion world, it often finds itself diluted, let alone lost in translation.
The challenge takes on an even more layered dimension within culturally diverse climates, where cultural identity and traditions tend to vary a lot among communities. While Lebanon is no stranger to this dynamic, many of its designers have found an ever-flowing well of inspiration to fuel their aesthetic in its beautiful chaos.
To delve deeper into the symbiotic relationship between fashion and heritage, we sought the dual perspective of Lebanese designer Roni Helou, whose eponymous brand has long upheld sustainability and local action, as well as pioneering Palestinian embroidery organization Inaash, represented by its resident designer Ahmed Amer.
1873 – Studio portrait of models wearing traditional clothing from the province of Surı̈yè (Syria), Ottoman Empire. From left to right: Christian woman of Zahlè, Christian woman of Zgharta, Druze woman of Lebanon. Photo by Pascal Sébah. From the G. Eric and Edith Matson Photograph Collection. Library of Congress.
Drawing Upon Tradition to Fuel Design Inspiration
Following a brief hiatus, Roni Helou came back to the world of fashion with an ode to Lebanese heritage in his latest SS24 collection. The inspiration behind this theme echoed the designer’s longing for Lebanon upon moving abroad for the first time. “This drove me to learn more about my Lebanese heritage, and in that process, to fall in love with the different techniques and materials that were used to create clothing in the old days prior to the 20th century,” he told Al Rawiya.
The Salma Balloon Skirt in cotton poplin, mid-rise with hidden pockets, hip gatherings, and back zipper, paired with the Soumi short-sleeved puffed-peplum shirt. Part of Roni Helou SS24 Collection. Courtesy of Roni Helou.
It did not take long for him to realize he wanted to pay homage to the country’s heritage through his work – all while keeping the outcome modern with a hint of fun to fit the needs of today’s customer. “Throughout this SS24 collection, you will find lots of volumes, beading work, ruffles, florals, and sherwal (traditional loose-fitting trousers) details. Basically, all the elements that stuck with me throughout my research on Lebanese heritage,” he noted.
c. 1929–1946 – Studio portrait of a woman from Ramallah, West Bank. Photo by either the American Colony Photo Department or its successor, the Matson Photo Service. From the G. Eric and Edith Matson Photograph Collection. Library of Congress.
Preserving and reinventing heritage is no stranger to Inaash Association, founded in 1969 by prominent Lebanese painter and sculptor Huguette Caland, daughter of Lebanon’s first president, Bechara El Khoury. The idea began as the brainchild of a visionary group of Lebanese and Palestinian women. They recognized the need to safeguard the art of Tatreez, Arabic term for embroidery, which has come to refer more specifically to Palestinian embroidery prevalent during the modern era (1800-1950).
Inaash’s fitted sleeveless vest, embroidered with Galilee motifs on tencel linen, paired with a pleated linen skirt featuring Lydda-Ramleh embroidery known as Pots of Ears of Corn or Spears. Inaash SS24 Collection. Photo by Elsn Lahoud. Courtesy of Inaash.
The organization has since embarked on a mission to support women in Palestinian refugee camps across Lebanon. “Over its five decades of existence, Inaash has touched the lives of over 2,000 women, not only offering monetary assistance but also fostering a sense of community and ensuring the continuity of cultural heritage,” Lebanese multidisciplinary artist and designer Ahmed Amer explained.
Fueled by the artistry of its dedicated embroiderers, the association established itself as an industry pioneer when it comes to artisanal collectibles, thereby preserving the heritage behind the craft and promoting it to a global audience. “Palestinian embroidery holds a special place as one of the most prevalent artisanal crafts in the region and stands as a form of resistance to the erasure of Palestinian culture,” Amer noted. “Working with traditional references serves as the cornerstone of our work, offering a strong foundation, a distinct identity, and a profound sense of representation.”
Inaash’s SS24 Collection features a white dress with red and black Palestinian embroidery, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. Photo by Elsn Lahoud. Courtesy of Inaash.
Today, Inaash engages over 400 women across five different refugee camps in the art of embroidery. Their meticulous craftsmanship is showcased through an array of high-end creations, from fashion apparel such as abayas, shawls, and jackets, to hand-embroidered accessories and home décor items like clutch bags, cushions, trays, and coasters. “These products reflect the fusion of tradition and modernity, as Inaash’s extensive archive of authentic Palestinian motifs and patterns remain the foundation upon which new designs are created,” Amer added.
This tradition of embroidery continues as successive generations pass down their skills from mother to daughter, ensuring that this cherished art form remains alive and vibrant by infusing it with contemporary styles. That is where the essence of Ahmed Amer’s role unravels, embracing a fresh perspective and crafting a new wave of designs that seamlessly combine present-day aesthetics with the richness of cultural heritage through embroidery.
Infusing Heritage with a Taste of Modernity
While heritage is an endless source of inspiration to designers in the region, it is always important to rework it to go with current times. “Clothing doesn’t need to be either traditional or modern. As Lebanese, our heritage is a mix of different civilizations due to the occupation of our country by several civilizations that have come and gone over the centuries, each leaving its mark,” Helou observed.
The Sofia Micro Skirt, made from surplus matte satin and jersey in crimson red and hot pink, features a low-rise fit with a ruched over-layer and a back zipper. Roni Helou SS24 Collection. Courtesy of Roni Helou.
The historical amalgam of cultures and civilizations gave Lebanon a uniquely rich heritage with versatile undertones, according to the visionary designer. “This is how our heritage evolved over the years, bit by bit, letting go of some old things and gaining new ones. That is exactly what I am trying to accomplish here. My Lebanese heritage is my starting point and not my end result,” he explained.
Symbols like flowers, spirals, and abstract shapes from Ahmed Amer’s FW24-25 Collection, Phase of Convergence, reflect Palestinian and Levantine attire. Photo by Yasmina Hilal, model Carine Hakim from Local Vice at Kintsugi. Courtesy of Ahmed Amer.
Ahmed Amer’s FW24-25 Collection, Phase of Convergence, features Bedouin thobe and keffiyeh-inspired designs with grid prints. Photo by Yasmina Hilal, models Carine Hakim and George Jbeily from Local Vice at Kintsugi. Courtesy of Ahmed Amer.
A similar vision is echoed by his fellow Creative Space Beirut alumnus Ahmed Amer, who is constantly on a quest to blend the old and the new into his design approach. “In our creative process at Inaash, we draw inspiration from timeless Palestinian embroidery motifs to craft new designs and garments. However, we do not merely replicate the past; we infuse contemporary elements into our work,” he noted.
A keffiyeh-inspired scarf from Ahmed Amer’s FW24-25 Collection, Phase of Convergence. Photo by Yasmina Hilal, model Carine Hakim from Local Vice at Kintsugi. Courtesy of Ahmed Amer.
The diversity in motifs is reflective of the geo-cultural tapestry of Palestine. Motifs serve as a visual representation of the area they hail from, weaving the story of the land into every stitch. “In regions along the coast, where trading and cultural exchange thrived, motifs may exhibit an intriguing fusion of different cultures, creating truly distinct patterns. In lush and fertile areas, they tend to revolve around the bounties of nature, featuring plants, fruits, and greens,” Amer explained. “In other regions, you’ll find motifs that lean more towards geometric shapes while others embrace the beauty of floral patterns.”
Inaash’s SS24 Collection includes a Grey Asymmetric Blouse, embroidered with the Hawthorn motif from Ramallah, blending tradition and innovation in veil linen. Photo by Elsn Lahoud. Courtesy of Inaash.
Newness is reflected through several design elements, starting with a fresh color palette thoughtfully selected to match the theme and preferences of the present moment. “On some occasions, we may draw inspiration from the original shapes and cuts of traditional garments, paying homage to tradition. In other instances, we innovate to create contemporary modest looks that complement and harmonize with the intricacies of Tatreez,” he continued.
Nevertheless, heritage is not always at the back of designers’ minds when crafting a collection. “For the longest time, I was struggling with my relationship with Lebanon due to the highly stressful lives we lead as Lebanese, as well as the constant uncertainties that we face, both as people and as businesses. It was only when I left the country that I felt connected to and inspired by my heritage,” Helou revealed.
The Dina Dress from Roni Helou’s SS24 Collection, crafted from crepe envers satin, features a scrunched bandeau, laced-up corsage, and a dropped waist balloon skirt with hidden pockets and hip gatherings. Courtesy of Roni Helou.
As the saying goes, sometimes the best way to love something is to let it go. The same applies to giving an accent to certain things by concealing them. “I find the most inspiring part to be the hidden sensuality, where, although the women were all covered up, the placement of various accessories accentuating certain lines in their bodies gave them an extreme sense of femininity and allure,” he added, explaining how it was important for him to pay attention to the different lines and proportions of the body to recreate a similar vibe.
Looking Back to Move Forward
The trick is not so much about recreating traditional wardrobe staples but rather drawing inspiration from their details. In this respect, Roni Helou’s SS24 collection is characterized by “draped voluminous skirts, as well as the underbust scoop necklines, and the scarves that are tied around the hips to serve as pockets to carry objects” in the designer’s own words.
Le Tarbouche, made from organic wool and cotton poplin, features a hand-applied scrunched fabric design. Paired with the Isla cotton tank top and V-cut low-rise Pam Jeans. Roni Helou SS24 Collection. Courtesy of Roni Helou.
The Britney Bralette, made from surplus taffeta, is hand-beaded and embroidered with cut-out details and frills. Paired with the Salma Balloon Skirt with hidden pockets and hip gatherings. Roni Helou SS24 Collection. Courtesy of Roni Helou.
“I wanted to convey the sense that I miss the version of myself in Lebanon, I miss my family and friends, I miss my pets, I miss my garden in the village, I miss the spontaneity I had in me there,” he said. “At the same time, I realize more than ever that leaving has allowed me to grow differently. It is part of growing up to leave your comfort zone, which can be reflected in the contrast between traditional details and modern aesthetic influence.”
Helou finds this growth to be more organic than planned. “With this collection, we expanded our target audience, targeting a younger demographic as well. Here, you will see a sexier version of RONI HELOU along with some artisanal pieces and more commercial pieces. The clothes are designed to cater to the needs of a versatile woman, with pieces that can be dressed up or down,” he explained.
Inaash’s SS24 Collection features elegant stripes and path-like embroideries, reflecting traditional Palestinian artistry. Photo by Elsn Lahoud. Courtesy of Inaash.
The heritage-inspired creative process is also rooted more than ever in shared values. “What drew me to Inaash are the multifaceted aspects of its mission and work. First and foremost, the organization is dedicated to preserving the cultural heritage of Palestine. Additionally, Inaash is deeply committed to empowering women, offering them opportunities for financial independence and self-sufficiency,” Amer observed, adding that such empowerment extends to cultural awareness, ensuring that heritage is not forgotten but rather passed on and celebrated.
This approach not only enriches the brand but also imparts a deeper layer of meaning onto its statement pieces. “In essence, our work is a testament to the enduring legacy of Palestinian embroidery, which has the power to narrate stories of the land, culture, and heritage,” Amer noted. “By infusing new life into these age-old motifs, we bridge the past and present, creating garments and designs that serve as a vibrant link to the rich history and traditions of Palestine.”
Gaza Chest Panel, from Inaash’s SS24 Collection, blends ancestral roots with modern elegance through intricate Gaza embroidery and a sleek minimalistic cut, highlighting the Cypress Tree. Photo by Elsn Lahoud. Courtesy of Inaash.
Sustainability is another of Inaash’s core values, from the use of natural fabrics over synthetic ones to its commitment to handmade craftsmanship and ensuring that all products are meticulously created. “We take pride in the fact that our collections tell stories, not just of the refugee women who make them but also of Palestine itself. These collections serve as a powerful medium to express the emotions of hope for a return to their homeland and an enduring ode to Palestinian culture,” the designer added.
This alignment of values and shared commitment to making a difference in a tumultuous world made his choice to join Inaash a deeply personal and fulfilling one. “It’s not just a platform for preserving tradition and heritage. It’s a source of hope, a channel for love, and a beacon of cultural appreciation,” he concluded, emphasizing the importance of traditional heritage in shaping not only the world of fashion but also our inner world and the world around us.
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Christina Fakhry
Christina is a Beirut-based creative consultant and freelance journalist with extensive cross-industry experience in strategic communication, art & culture, diplomacy and the startup ecosystem. Besides consulting brands and organizations on key pillars of their online presence, her editorial journey spans across print, online and broadcast outlets. She heads one of the earliest digital-themed magazine sections in the region and has contributed articles, features and op-eds to leading publications, besides formerly working as a television host and panelist.
- Christina Fakhry
